Builder: PLANtoBUILD
Why Radial Timber should be specified and used on your next project?
1. Environment – Sustainable
The radial process produces more wood from fewer trees. It is an ideal process for processing small diameter plantation sawlog
2. Quality – Consistent
Every piece of radially sawn timber is cut in exactly the same way so our products perform predictably.
3. Point of Difference – Unique
Many of the Radial Timber profiles are unique and interesting designs which is why project featuring our products win so many awards
4. Chain of Custody – Traceable
Radial Timber is growing, drying, milling and selling all it is own product. We are in controlled of where the timber comes from and how it is processed
5. Design for Durability – Knowledge
We are very experience in every technical aspect of timber and how to maximise its performance on your next project. Our architect rep is available to discuss special requirements for any project you may have
Technical Data
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Installations
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Board and Batten
Setting up: Board & Batten cladding is typically installed in a regular pattern with base boards spaced and fixed to the frame first (wide face out). Batten or cap boards are then fixed over the gap with the narrow face out (see Figure 1). Fixing battens or noggings should be spaced at maximum of 600mm centres. While fixing battens may increase the overall wall thickness, they can be quicker to install and easier to level than noggings. Typically we recommend 75×35 r-7 treated pine for Battens. Each sq. metre of Board & Batten cladding is supplied with an allowance for this cover included. Sisalation should be fixed to the stud wall with the fixing batten installed over the sisalation. Mitred joins on loose boards should be used on external corners and glued with flexible polyethylene glue.
Installation: When fixing base boards, ensure gaps are set so that the cap board will cover the edge of each base board by a minimum of 25 to 30mm to allow for natural shrinkage. For the standard 100mm combination of boards, a gap of 50mm should be allowed between base boards. Cap boards should be fixed promptly to base boards, to facilitate the boards seasoning and ‘locking’ together, and avoiding uneven movement. Boards should not be installed on hot windy days in full direct sun, as these conditions increase the risk of boards cupping or distorting.A
Radial Timbers can supply suitable hot dipped gal batten screws.
Fixings: Base boards can be gun nailed or hand nailed but care should be taken close to the ends to avoid splitting (65mm galvanised or stainless steel twisted shank nails preferred). It is recommended that cap boards be fixed with 100mm stainless steel or hot dipped galvanised batten screws (NOTE: if nailing cap boards, hardwood framing and 2 x 100mm long nails are preferred). The recommended fixing rate is two nails per base board and one Bugle Batten Screw for cap boards.
Board and batten is supplied in freshly cut grain boards which should be installed within 4 weeks of being milled to ensure the best round quality. It is important that orders are placed so that boards are not stored on site for more than 2-4 weeks. They should be kept wrapped in plastic with a tarp over the pack to avoid the boards drying out before fixing.
Seasoning & Storage: Some surface checking may occur during seasoning but these non structural cracks will close again as moisture content in the boards equalise (NOTE: unprotected west facing walls may be subject to extreme temperature changes and therefore, timber is more likely to check or move). It is normal for all hardwoods to leach red/brown extractives during heavy rain periods. Extractives tend to be less prominent in lighter species but it is advisable to protect walls/paving until the extractives have finished leaching (can vary but leaching will generally continue for up to 6 months). Packs should be kept fully wrapped, weighted and off the ground in a level position before fixing to prevent uneven drying or distortion.
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Boardwalk
Boardwalk
Setting up: Radial Boardwalk Decking should be laid wide face up. Gaps should be left between boards to allow for swelling during wet weather. The amount of swelling (or shrinkage) will vary depending on the width of the board, the species of timber and local climatic conditions. Joists should be spaced at max. 650mm to 700mm centres.
Installation: For most “typical” installations, 6mm to 7mm gaps should be left between boards but also consult Radial Timber Sales for site specific recommendations (eg. in areas subject to high moisture such as south facing decks or in bush settings, it may be advisable to increase the spacing between boards to allow for additional swelling).
Fixings: Boards may be gun nailed but hand nailing with 65mm long twisted shank nails or screw fixing with 65mm long batten screws is preferred and care should be taken close to ends to avoid splitting (pre-drill all holes if hand nailing). All fixings should be hot dipped galvanised or stainless steel and all profiles require 2 fixings per board per joist (position nails approximately 20mm to 25mm in from the outside edge of the board).
Seasoning & Storage: Some surface checking may occur if timber is exposed to the weather but these non structural cracks are typical in most Australian hardwoods (NOTE: unprotected west facing decks may be subject to extreme temperature changes and therefore, timber is more likely to check or move). It is also normal for hardwoods to leach red/brown extractives during heavy rain periods. Extractives tend to be less prominent in lighter species but it is advisable to cover or protect walls and paving until all extractives have leached (can vary depending on rainfall but will generally continue for up to 6 months). Packs should be stored up off the ground and under cover or protected with an additional tarp to prevent swelling. If wetting does occur, allow a min. of 24 hours for timber to dry before fixing.
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Random Deck
Random Deck
Setting up: Random BE Decking is typically installed by alternating wide and narrow boards. The effects of cupping will be minimised by installing the deck with the wide face of the narrow board down and the wide face of the wide board up (see Figure 1). To reduce splintering, it is recommended that the sharp, exposed edges of the narrow boards be planed on site prior to fixing. Joists can be spaced at 500 to 600mm centres.
Installation: Decking boards should be fixed with minimal or no gap to allow for natural shrinkage (approx. shrinkage of 7% or 5-6mm per 100mm of board is normal). It is not uncommon for boards to be slightly drier on the ends, thus resulting in minor variations in width and line. When butt jointing the decking, it may be advisable to end dock the boards or at least fix to the centre-line of the boards and ignore any minor variations in width (ie. most variation will diminish as the boards fully season).
Fixings: Boards can be gun or hand nailed with 65mm twisted or ring shank nails or fixed with 50mm batten screws but care should be taken close to the ends to avoid splitting (it may be necessary to pre drill if hand nailing. All fasteners should be galvanised or stainless steel. A fixing rate of two fasteners per board per joist is recommended.
Seasoning & Storage: Some surface checking may occur during seasoning but these non structural cracks will close again as moisture content in the boards equalise (NOTE: unprotected west facing decks may be subject to extreme temperature changes and therefore, timber is more likely to check or move). It is normal for all hardwoods to leach red/brown extractives during heavy rain periods. Extractives tend to be less prominent in lighter species but it may be advisable to protect walls/paving until the extractives have finished leaching (can vary but leaching will generally continue for up to 6 months). Packs should be kept wrapped, weighted and off the ground in a level position before fixing to prevent uneven drying or distortion.
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New Deck
New Deck
Setting up: NEW DECKTM is laid wide face up. Gaps should be left between boards to allow for swelling during wet weather. The amount of swelling (or shrinkage) will vary depending on the width of the board, the species of timber and local climatic conditions. Joists should be spaced at max. 450mm centres.
Installation: For most “typical” installations, the following spacing guide should be followed but also consult Radial Timber Sales for site specific recommendations (eg. in areas subject to high moisture such as south facing decks or in bush settings, it may be advisable to increase the spacing between boards to allow for additional swelling):
- NEW DECK 55: 4 to 5mm gaps between boards
- NEW DECK 80: 5 to 6mm gaps between boards
- NEW DECK 100: 6 to 7mm gaps between boards
Fixings: NEW DECKTM can be gun or hand nailed with 50mm long hot dipped galvanised or stainless steel “twisted shank” or “ring shank” nails or decking screws, but care should be taken close to ends to avoid splitting (pre-drill all holes if hand nailing). NEW DECK 55 can be can be fixed with one nail per board per joist, however, two nails at butt joints or ends is advisable (position nails in the centre of boards). NEW DECK 80 &
100 should be fixed with 2 nails per board per joist (position nails approx. 20mm in from edge of board).
Seasoning & Storage: Some surface checking may occur if timber is exposed to the weather but these non structural cracks are typical in most Australian hardwoods. It is also normal for hardwoods to leach red/brown extractives during heavy rain periods. Extractives tend to be less prominent in lighter species but it is advisable to cover or protect walls and paving until all extractives have leached (can vary depending on rainfall but will generally continue for up to 6 months). Packs should be stored up off the ground and under cover or protected with an additional tarp to prevent swelling. If wetting does occur, allow a min. of 24 hours for timber to dry before fixing.
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Screenboards
Screenboards
Setting up: Radially sawn Screen Boards can be fixed wide or narrow face out (NOTE: in most cases, they are fixed narrow face out). Depending on the thickness, Screen Boards can be fixed to rails or supports at centres of up to 1200mm but closer spacings will minimise movement or distortion (ie. 600 to 700mm max. centres would be advisable when fixing 19mm to 25mm thick timber).
Installation: The spacings allowed between seasoned DAR boards will depend on the desired look or function of the screen, however, a minimum spacing of 5mm should be allowed for swelling (NOTE: most privacy or sun screens are spaced at approx. 10mm). Unseasoned screen boards will shrink approximately 7% across their width so this should be considered when designing a screen.
Fixings: Boards can be hand nailed, gun nailed or screw fixed. Fixings should be at least 50mm long for 19mm to 25mm thick boards and at least 65mm long for 30mm to 50mm boards (NOTE: it is advisable to use stainless steel or hot dipped galvanised ring shank nails when fixing boards into treated pine, or twist shank nails for hardwood). Bevelled edge profiles may be “secret nailed” by skewing fasteners through the sloping sides but face fixing will give the best results. Pre-drilling may be required when fixing seasoned boards.
Seasoning & Storage: Some surface checking may occur if timber is exposed to the weather but these non structural cracks are typical in most Australian hardwoods. It is also normal for hardwoods to leach red/brown extractives during heavy rain periods. Extractives tend to be less prominent in lighter species but it is advisable to cover or protect walls and paving until all extractives have leached (can vary depending on rainfall but will generally continue for up to 6 months). Packs should be stored up off the ground and under cover or protected with an additional tarp to prevent swelling. If wetting does occur, allow a min. of 24 hours for timber to dry before fixing.
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Secret Fixed Shiplap
Secret Fixed Shiplap
Setting up: Shiplap cladding is typically installed in a regular pattern with the tongues and rebates of adjacent boards fitted together (see Figure1). Seasoned Shiplap boards will exhibit minimal shrinkage and will actually swell slightly in wetter regions or exposed areas making it essential to ensure boards have a gap to allow this movement. Noggings, fixing battens or studs should be spaced at max. 600mm centres. If shiplap is run vertically fixing batten may make installation easier.
Installation: Preferably layout of the boards should be in a vertical position for better water run off especially in very exposed locations such as near the coast. Boards can be fixed directly to breathable sisalation clad walls however a better option is to use fixing battens on the studs Use 75×35 treated pine fixed directly to the sisalation clad stud walls, this also allows for good ventilation between the back of the boards and the sisalation. It also makes installation of the shiplap much quicker however allowances must be made for the extra width cavity wall when it comes to windows, doorways etc. If fixed horizontally, the tongues of each Shiplap board should face up to prevent water from being trapped inside joints. On long runs, boards may have to be butt joined but a better option is to use engineered set lengths alternatively, walls can be broken up into smaller panels by inserting a flashing or vertical/horizontal timber stops. Special Aluminium or timber profiles can also be used on external and internal corners (these are available from radial timber) .
Boards must be installed with a 3mm gap between them which is indicated by the shadow line which is a very slight raised section on the tongue. This spacing will allow for movement of the timber as ambient humidity and conditions change.
Do not allow rain or water to get behind boards during installation. Wall cavity must be protected at all times. It’s important that all flashing around windows or other openings are adequately installed to allow for proper drainage away from the timber. Care and attention should also be taken to avoid pooling of water when fixing other structures such as pergolas to the cladding as well.
Fixings: Boards should be screwed with 50mm long stainless steel 7 gauge (small head) Stainless Steel (304 or 316 grade) screws as these don’t degrade like other metals with but care should be taken close to ends to avoid splitting. (Radial can supply self-drilling, self-countersinking stainless steel screws fixings). The screws should be installed so that they sit flush on the rebate allowing the over lapping board to lock into place against the shadow line. Holes can either be predrilled or self-drilling screws can be used into pine battens. Care should be taken if using self-drilling screws especially at the ends of the boards to avoid splitting.
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V-Joint Shiplap
V-Joint Shiplap
Storage
Packs should be stored up off the ground and under cover or protected with an additional tarp to prevent swelling. If wetting does occur, separate timber with strips between each layer. Place in a well ventilated area under cover and allow a minimum of 24 hours for timber to dry before fixing.
Setting Up
Shiplap cladding is typically installed in a regular pattern with the tongues and rebates of adjacent boards fitted together (see Figure1). Seasoned Shiplap boards will exhibit minimal shrinkage and will actually swell slightly in wetter regions or exposed areas making it essential to ensure boards have a gap to allow this movement. Noggings, fixing battens or studs should be spaced at max. 600mm centres. If shiplap is run vertically fixing batten may make installation easier.
Installation
Preferably layout of the boards should be in a vertical position for better water run off especially in very exposed locations such as near the coast. Boards can be fixed directly to breathable sisalation clad walls however a better option is to use fixing battens on the studs Use 75×35 treated pine fixed directly to the sisalation clad stud walls, this also allows for good ventilation between the back of the boards and the sisalation. It also makes installation of the shiplap much quicker however allowances must be made for the extra width cavity wall when it comes to windows, doorways etc. If fixed horizontally, the tongues of each Shiplap board should face up to prevent water from being trapped inside joints. On long runs, walls can be butt joined or broken up into smaller panels by inserting a flashing or vertical/horizontal timber stops between each panel. Special Aluminium or timber profiles can also be used on external and internal corners (these are available from radial timber).
Boards must be installed with a 3-5mm gap (see Figure 2) on the front of the board, 3mm for 45mm, 70mm and 90mm cover and 5mm for 110mm cover. Boards exposed to the sun and rain (north – northwest elevation) will shrink and swell more than semi protected boards. Recommended expansion gaps are critical on these exposed elevations as is eliminating any butt joins(engineered set lengths might be a better option) and where possible provide some weather protection with eaves, veranda, or similar.
Radial Timber Sales can provide 3 & 5mm spacers for this to help with installation. Do not allow rain or water to get behind boards during installation. Wall cavity must be protected at all times. It’s important that all flashing around windows or other openings are adequately installed to allow for proper drainage away from the timber. Care and attention should also be taken to avoid pooling of water when fixing other structures such as pergolas to the cladding as well.
Fixings
Boards should be screwed with 50mm long stainless steel 7- 8 gauge Stainless Steel (304 or 316 grade) screws as these don’t degrade like other metals with but care should be taken close to ends to avoid splitting. (Radial can supply self-drilling, self-countersinking stainless steel screws fixings). The recommended fixing rate for 90mm or 110mm boards is two face fixed screws per board per stud/batten. A single screw is acceptable for the face of 70mm or 45mm boards but these should have 2 fixings at the ends of the board.
V-Joint shiplap boards in cross section with spacing 47, 70, 90 cover
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Internal Lining
Internal Lining
Setting up & Acclimatisation: Internal Panelling boards are typically fixed in a regular pattern with the tongues and grooves or rebates of adjacent boards being fitted together (ie. depending on whether T&G or Shiplap profile). It is important to remember that kiln dried timber may be affected by on site atmospheric conditions and therefore, it is important to acclimatise lining boards to local conditions by laying them out in the location where they are to be fixed for up to 14 days. (NOTE: excessive heat or moisture may result in subsequent shrinking or swelling). It is important that the location is well ventilated so air is able to circulate around each board during the cclimatisation process (poor ventilation, extreme or abnormal climate conditions may result in the need for longer acclimatisation). A moisture metre can be used to test that the timber has reached equilibrium with the “normal” moisture content of the room.
Installation: If being fixed vertically as a wall lining, noggings should be at max. 600mm centres and it may be best to order boards in set lengths (especially if there are few window and door openings). If being fixed as a ceiling or eaves lining, we recommend that joists/battens be spaced at 450 to 500mm centres to reduce sag.
Fixings: Boards can be hand or gun nailed but care should be taken close to the ends to avoid splitting (pre-drilling prior to nailing may be necessary). If linings are internal, nails or fixing brads should be approx. 40mm long and do not have to be coated. Do not nail or fasten boards together through the overlapped part of the lining (ie. boards should be fixed independently of one another to allow for some movement).
Storage: If being stored outside, packs of Panelling should be suitably covered to prevent wetting and water staining. If wetting does occur, timber should be allowed to air dry before commencing acclimatisation period (a timber cleaner may be required to remove any water stains).
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Weatherboards Natural Edge
Weatherboards Natural Edge
Transport: RADCON NE Weatherboards are supplied unseasoned and generally transported to site in log form with the ends uncut. It is not uncommon for logs to break open or boards to split during transport/delivery but Radial Timber Salesgenerally provides an additional 1 to 2m2 of boards in each log at no cost. If damage occurs, it is recommended that the split boards be put aside and only used as short infills around windows and doors (NOTE: Radial Timber Sales will replace any short fall of boards, where it can be shown that they have been damaged during the delivery process). If there is insufficient room to unload logs on site, they may have to be cut down and stacked prior to delivery (a 10% surcharge will apply in such cases).
Setting up: The ends of each log need to be removed in order to release the boards. This is typically done by cutting in a min. of 300mm from each end of the log with a chainsaw. Once the log ends have been removed, boards spring free from the heart wood or core and have a slight but consistent curve, resulting from natural tensions in the log (see Figure 3). Studs should be spaced at max. 600mm centres.
Installation: Boards are generally installed in sequence by numbering the boards and following the profile of the log (NOTE: overall cover will be reduced if installing the boards in a random pattern). Before fixing the first board, the outer or sapwood edge may have to be cut square in order to remove any natural curvature. Remaining boards can then be fixed by eye (ignoring minor variations in cover) or by scribing the average cover onto weatherboard stops. A minimum board overlap of 30mm is recommended to allow for average shrinkage of up to 7%. First time fixing may take longer than that for conventional square edge boards.
Fixings: Boards can be hand or gun nailed but care should be taken close to ends to avoid splitting (may need to pre-drill if hand nailing). Typically, 50mm longhot dipped galvanised or stainless steel fixings should be used but it may be necessary to use 65mm nails if boards are thicker than 25mm (NOTE: it is advisable to use twisted shank nails when fixing boards into treated pine). Pre drilling the ends of boards prior to fixing may be required to avoid splitting. A fixing of one nail per board per stud is recommended.
Joining: When joining NE Weatherboards on long runs, the boards should be matched for width and appearance by “book matching” or butt joining the ends of consecutive boards from a log. On long walls, it may be quicker to break up the wall into smaller panels by inserting weatherboard stops (ie. vertical timber sections). Weatherboard stops can also be used at joins on internal and external corners of the building (rough sawn 50x50mm or 75x50mm sections and are available from Radial Timber Sales).
Cover: The average cover of NE Weatherboards will vary within a single log or between logs, therefore, achieving the same cover for a whole wall may not be possible (remember to work with each log and have fun with this product). If the effective cover appears to be less than 80mm, it is recommended that these boards be put aside and only used if narrow coverage is a desired effect. Radial Timber makesallowance for unseen damage/wastage but will replace any short fall of boards, where it can be shown that they are out of spec.
Seasoning & Storage: Some movement may occur during seasoning but boards will generally settle as moisture content in the boards equalise (NOTE: unprotected west facing walls may be subject to extreme temperature changes and therefore, timber is more likely to move). It is normal for all hardwoods to leach red/brown extractives during heavy rain periods. Extractives tend to be less prominent in lighter species but it is advisable to protect walls/paving until the extractives have finished leaching (can vary but leaching will generally continue for up to 6 months). Leaving boards in log form is the recommended way to store timber on site for extended periods of time (ie. logs can be stored for up to 12 months but it may be advisable to cover with a tarp or plastic).
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